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Crushing waves on the Rio Futaleufu |
After finishing an amazing day on the
Rio Manso
I got a phone call. "Chris, it's Nate. Can you be in Esquel tomorrow?
We need you to take photos for some clients that are coming in."
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The night sky in Futaleufu |
The next morning I woke up super early, and went to
the bus station in Bariloche. My plan was to catch the first bus out of
town at 7 AM. There were already two kayakers waiting at the end of an
overly packed bus who were trying to squish their kayaks into the cargo
area. I immediately walked into the terminal and swapped my ticket to
the next available bus. An hour and a half later I was packing my
kayak
into the back of the bus and trying to get comfortable for the six hour
bus ride south to Esquel. Once there, I was picked up by Adriana
Radwanski, the manager of
H2O Patagonia. She gave me the low down about what was going on.
H2O Patagonia
had two clients coming to the Futaleufu for a week who were interested
in a photo package. I was there to create that photo package. We hopped
in Adriana's truck and headed for the Argentina border. When we arrived
the skies started to let loose. The rain was coming down hard, and then
harder. By the time we made it to the front of the Argentine border
checkpoint line it was a torrential downpour outside. My kayak gear
looked interesting to the border patrol, and they asked to thoroughly
search my
baggage.
By the time they got done looking through all of my gear most of it was
sopping wet. Adrian and I finally got our passport stamps and were on
our way to do the same song and dance on the Chilean side.
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Wild flowers cover the valley floor |
A couple hundred yards further down the road at the Chilean border my
gear was under questioning again. "Have you gotten your equipment
washed?" The Chilean border control was trying to say that there had
been a recent influx of
Didymo algae in the Futaleufu valley, and they
wanted all of my gear disinfected.
Didymo is an invasive slime that
attaches itself to the bottom of rivers, eating away and stifling all
the naturally growing plants. The Chilean government is now taking steps
to help slow down the spread of
Didymo by washing all incoming water
equipment,
including boats, waders, fishing poles, and my mostly dry
union suit. The
Didymo can easily be killed off by completely drying
your gear for 48 hours, or washing it with regular dish soap. So my
mostly wet gear, from being searched in Argentina, got completely
drenched with soapy water as I entered Chile.
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Double click on the photo and check out the pollen on the bee |
Arriving at
H2O's
base camp I was blown away by the amazing view of huge rugged
mountains, bright blue skies above, and wildflowers below. The guides
took me to the back porch, where a wood-fired hot tub was placed above
the river. The sun was setting and lighting up the sky with a bright
orange blaze that was reflecting off the glacial blue river. The Rio
Futaleufu was showing off. My day of bumpy roads and wet gear was
definitely worth that view alone.
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Gorgeous views after a solid hike |
H20's
guides Pedro Fernandez Cid, Tomas Binimelischatted, and Nate Mac
brought me up to speed on the week's itinerary. The trip was going to
show off the surreal beauty of Patagonia.
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An average eddy on the Futaleufu |
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Paddling duckies on the the Rio Espolon |
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Pillow rock on the Rio Futaleufu |
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Steer wrangling competition at Media Luna |
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Impromptu steer wrangling via bicycle |
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Canyoneering in Cajon Jelves |
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Fabio putting the finishing touches on a amazing desert |
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By the time we returned to base camp everyday we were
starving and tired. Chef Fabio Roman de Luca was also tired. He had
been in the kitchen all day creating another amazing meal. Turning out
great meals in the remote Futaleufu valley is not a talent, but an art.
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Small blue woodpecker |
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An abandon building with a gorgeous garden |
People place so much hype on paddling the Rio
Futaleufu, but that's because it's worth it. The river really wants to
be paddled. The water is relatively warm, the features are friendly, and
the beautiful blue water with amazing mountain scenery creates a jaw
dropping experience.
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Futalefu hawk |
After
paddling
both world renowned big water classics of the Futaleufu and the Zambezi
within a short period of time, it's hard to say which I like better.
The Zam is definitely more out of control. You just paddle into huge
features and get annihilated. You can't do that as much on the Futa, it
is a little more technical, and there are definitely a couple features
that you don't want to
paddle into. They are both gems, and both should be high on your list for amazing adventures.
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Rafters in front of the Tres Monjas |
Stay tuned for the next write up from an illegal river in Argentina that is slated for dam construction.
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Another tale by Chris Baer |
1 comment:
Full of adventures trip.You can also find the same taste of adventures and beautiful nature in and around the Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. It's also awesome for a great trip.
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